The Festa di San Giovanni is held every year on 24 June in Piazza Castello, in the heart of Torino. It is the celebration of the city's patron saint, and the highlight is the great bonfire: a pyre of wood several metres high is lit at sunset in front of thousands of Torinesi who watch the direction of the flames to draw omens about the year ahead.
Tradition holds that if the flames lean towards Palazzo Reale, the year will be favourable for the city; if they lean towards Palazzo della Regione, less fortunate. This custom has very ancient roots, linked to pre-Christian solstice rites that celebrated fire on the shortest night of the year. For those who want to discover the esoteric secrets connected to this celebration, the Torino Magica Tour tells precisely the story of the bond between the city and the pagan traditions that have survived through the centuries.
The day begins with the religious procession that crosses the historic centre, starting from the Cattedrale di San Giovanni — the same one that houses the Holy Shroud — and travelling along the city's main streets. Civil and religious authorities parade in traditional dress, accompanied by the brotherhoods.
Around the bonfire, the festival comes alive with free concerts, street performers and food stalls offering Piedmontese specialities. Fireworks close the evening, lighting up the Mole Antonelliana and the city skyline. To make the most of the festival, we recommend arriving in the afternoon and exploring the Palazzo Reale area before the square fills up for the evening bonfire. 24 June is also a public holiday in Torino, so many shops are closed but museums stay open with special hours.